Monday, May 12, 2014

KWIK Sew 3484 "Complete Pictorial Series" Part 2 of 3

Today before we do anything else I want to make sure to tell you that it is important to wash and dry your fabric.  It really does make a difference in the final outcome of your garment.  I purchased this fabric through Hawaiian and I have to say the colors are amazing.  They really do have excellent fabrics to choose from.

It's also important that you give it a good ironing.  Just like your pattern, if you do not iron it flat you may find some deviation when sewing the pieces together.

On this particular pattern I have folded the fabric selvage edge to selvage edge with right sides together making sure to have a nice crisp fold line.  Some might lay out there pattern pieces all at once.  I tend to lay out only a couple at a time.  This is the back of the shirt which is placed on the fold line for one continuous piece and the other is the front facing.  Make sure you always follow the grain line on the pattern.

All cut out and good to go.  I'm going to leave all the pieces together while I cut the rest of them out because before I separate the pattern from the fabric I need to make sure to mark all of the guide dots with thread.  i.e. where the collar should be placed, the side seam vent begin, etc....

The front right and left panel.  You may notice if you look closely that there are no markings for the button holes or even button placement.  This is the first time I have run across this in a pattern.  In the directions they tell you just to measure so many inches down from the collar to mark your first button hole and then so many inches after that for each additional hole until you have marked all five.

Since the upper and under collar are two different sizes  you end up laying them on a single layer of fabric.  This is one spot I deviated from the pattern.  The pattern has these two pieces in half which should be places on the fold.  I made them full size so I could just place them on a single layer of fabric.  That's just my personal preference.

This is my right and left sleeves, normally this would be placed on a double layer of fabric, but my fabric shrunk up just enough to where it was 1/4" or so not wide enough, and this does happen from time to time.  That's why I always add 1/2 yard or so extra to any fabric I buy.

Here is one of the dots I was telling you about, this one is for where the seam line should end right before the side vent.  You can use a water soluble marking pencil to mark this but I normally just use a bright colored thread.

This should pull through the Swedish Tracing Paper with ease.  Just make sure you knot off a single thread in both pieces of fabric so you have both spots marked.

Another spot that is really important to mark with thread is the pocket placement.

Pattern placement on printed fabric for the pocket is really a practice in patients.  Take a really good look at the design of the fabric and try to match it up so it blends in with the front of the shirt perfectly.

I think it came out just right.  We'll see!

This is the upper collar, since it is really close to the same size as the under collar I made sure I put a safety pin on the edge to identify this as the collar piece that needs to have the interfacing applied to it.  Also make sure you cut out all of your little notches.  They really are important to lining up fabric pieces.  I like to cut mine so they stick out, but a lot of sewist just clip into the fabric to mark them.

Marked the front facing with red thread to identify where the collar should end.

This should be what they look like when they are all cut out.

All the pattern pieces on the right cut out and marked in appropriate places and interfacing on the left ready to go.

Lining up my front facing with the fusible interfacing.

Left front done!

Right front done!

Upper collar done!

Finally, yea....were sitting in front of our sewing machine!  The first step KWIK Sew has you do is use a zig zag stitch to bind off both facing pieces from the top edge all the way to the bottom.

This is how they should look when completed.

This is where I'll be stopping for today.  We just have one more post left to get it all together.  

The weather is really warming up and it was a beautiful day out today.  Perfect weather for a nice Hawaiian Shirt.

Until next time....Happy Sewing!    Seam Ripper Joe