Tuesday, February 18, 2014

KWIK Sew 2185 - Men's Long Sleeve Polo - In Tan and Red!

When I ran across this color combination it was just meant to be.  The two fabrics went perfectly together.  Almost like peanut butter and jelly.  The tan of course is a Ponte Roma Knit (you know me, love that particular kind of knit) and the red and tan is just a normal cotton weave.  I'm not sure if it has a particular name, it's a looser type of weave.  Annyyywaayyyysss.... I thought they went together smashingly!

The last Polo that I made...you remember the blue one.  I had made it in a large.  It turned out okay and everything but I thought it was just a smidgen to big.  It's comfortable and I'll wear it like crazy but I thought I would try my next one in a medium.    So I retraced my entire pattern to that size.  Happy Times....That's one nice thing about using Swedish Tracing Paper, you never have to worry about destroying your hard copy of the pattern.

This is really a nice weave and it's super soft.  I used this fabric for the collar and button placket section.  I still had a good bit of it left so you may see it come up in small sections of future projects.

The collar was supposed to be cut with the grain.  I thought with the design of the fabric though the collar would look better being cut on the bias.  Every once in a while I have to buck the system and go against pattern instructions.  It's relatively minor though.

Attaching the base of the button placket.  This style of polo is made with the hidden placket.

Attaching the actual piece with the button holes to the base placket.  Hmm...I'm not really sure the names of these two separate pieces.  I just always called the whole section a button placket.

Reinforcing the shoulder seams with bias tape.  This is another area that I differ from the actual instructions.  I fold open the seam and iron it flat on both sides and then sew both seams down with bias tape.  This also gives a real nice looking stitch on the outside of the shirt.

With the outside section of the collar stand sewn in place I am ready to attach my collar.  I'll sew it right at 1/8" from the edge of the fabric.  This holds the collar in place.  When I go to attach the other section of collar stand I'll sew it at 1/4" seam allowance which will cover all the previous stitches.

At this point I have done a few things in advance which will make it a little easier for me to sew on the rest of the collar stand.  I have turned under and ironed 1/4" of the bottom of the collar stand and also clipped it down to hold the fold nice and secure.  Along with sewing on my clothing label.

With the last piece of the collar stand being sewn on we only have a couple of steps left to finishing off the collar.

Instead of pinning the inside of the collar stand down before top stitching.  I find it easier just to baste it in place.  I've read that some sewists pin it down from the outside of the shirt.  That indeed could be a really good way to accomplish this part but I could never understand how to do it and keep it perfectly even.  So in this house we just baste it for now.

Top stitching the collar stand.  One of my favorite parts!  My Singer 66-8 foot is exactly 1/8" from the needle to the outside of the foot which is the exact distance I top stitch from the edge.  So it works out really nice.

Time to put on the buttons.  I found these really nice wood buttons perfect for this shirt.

"Ta-Da"  You gotta love real wood buttons.

Giving it a rest for the night!

I was actually so busy during this time the shirt took me around 2 1/2 weeks to make.

Attaching the sleeves and top stitching the seam allowance  down.  This is also another step that I added to the instructions (the top stitching part).  I just think it looks a lot better.

I also do the same with the cuffs.  I spread the seam open and iron down the seam allowance and then top stitch both sides down.

The finished shirt.

I Like how the medium fits.  It's funny how in one pattern you can be an extra large.  While in another you can be a large.  Or in this case even a medium.

"You Gotta Have a WAWA"

Sorry, it's a northeast thing.  Loosely translated it means your morning coffee.

Stephanie wanted me to do a different type of pose.  Boy she sure is a demanding photographer.  So here I am, forever looking for awesome fabric sales and new patterns.  I know there's some, just up over that horizon.

Until next time....Happy Sewing!    Seam Ripper Joe

Saturday, February 8, 2014

Sewing 911 - Practical and Creative Rescues for Sewing Emergencies by Barbara Deckert

I just wanted to share a new book purchase that I made the other day.  It was a book published in 2001 by Barbara Deckert.  When I came across it on Amazon I was sort of amazed.  It is definitely a sewing book with a twist.  Every sewing book that I own shows you how to properly sew a garment.  Mostly from start to finish.  Barbara put out a book that shows you how to correct all the bungles and mistakes you make while sewing them.  Very cool.  All of us at one time or another have really fumbled a sewing project to the point that it becomes a UFO, well now they don't have to be!  Barbara takes you through step-by-step corrections on how to fix those bungles and once again have a beautiful finished garment.

I know this post is a quick one today, but I thought it was important to share this book with all the sewists out there who finish a project and are not sure how to correct some of the mistakes they've made in them.  This is definitely a must have book for your sewing library.

Until next time....Happy Sewing!  Seam Ripper Joe