Tuesday, July 30, 2013

"Two Steps Forward, One Step Back"....or the Making of Kwik Sew Pattern 2776 - Mens Pants!

The Kwik Sew Pattern 2776 - (Men's Pants) is just the type of pattern in which I am so very glad that I have procedures built into my sewing routine.  Like always using Swedish Tracing Paper for my patterns and on new patterns always making a muslin first before I proceed to sewing the finished garment.  I find these two steps, although they may be time consuming,  are really very important and help work out any of the glitches that may be in the pattern.

During the muslin process I worked out a snafu they had in the pattern which is how you add the elastic to the waist line.  I'll explain that a little further down.  A couple of other changes I made, instead of the patch pockets I used a welt pocket.  Also I had to change my size from a large to a medium.

I have everything laid out. Lets start.

Another benefit of using Swedish Tracing Paper is having to essentially draw the entire pattern out before you cut it. You really understand everything about it much better.  It sorta gives you a bonding experience with the pattern your sewing. 

On this particular pattern I chose not to fold the fabric and pin the pattern down.  I made individual pattern pieces and just cut it all out on the right side of the fabric.

The pattern itself was a snap to cut out.  Love using tracing paper!  This is marking the outer edge of the pocket were you sew it onto the pant leg.

I drafted up my own welt pocket pattern after watching a tutorial by Colleen G. Lea from her Fashion Sewing Blog.  "Thanks Colleen"!

Love using my new Singer. Love, Love, Love.  Starting the main stitch base line for the welt pocket.  You may notice a couple of little black threads hanging out of the interfacing.  I've really started to enjoy just using thread to mark all of my pleats, darts and markers for placement instead of chalk.  In the long run it's so much easier and you don't have to worry about the chalk wearing off.

A lot of people stitch in the ditch for a welt pocket, but I sorta like the way it looks top stitched!

Topstitching on the front pockets.

The zipper was very easy to do on this pattern, very clear instructions.

Once the zipper was attached good and proper I turned it to the front and pulled out the basting stitch.

Top stitching from the front securing the zipper shield in place.  You can see were I still haven't pulled out my black thread markers.

Sewing up both outer edge pant legs!

Added top stitching to the outer leg seams gives a nice finished look.

Now adding the waistband.  This is were you have to waiver from the instructions.  I'm not really sure what they were thinking when they wrote the instructions for installing the elastic in the waistband. Hopefully their mind was side tracked by a "huge piece of chocolate cake" they had waiting for them in the break room and if that was the case then all is forgiven.  I probably wouldn't be able to concentrate either (can you tell it's almost my snack time). Also Kwik Sew patterns are usually really good with their instructions.  Now with that being said, the waistband is sewn on per there instructions, which is sewtastic, but when you go to install the elastic they want you to attach the center of the elastic to the center of the waistband in back and the two ends of the elastic to those two little black lines in front on the interfacing in the photo by the button holes.  This is were the problem lies because they want you to turn the waistband over wrong sides together, pin it down and stitch in the ditch all the way around the outside of the waistband.  Can you see the problem with this (long waistband short piece of elastic).

So this is how I resolved it.  I attached the center of the elastic to the center of the waistband.  On both ends of elastic I attached a  very "Big" safety pin and laid the elastic flat on the inside of the waistband.  With the wrong sides folded together I clipped the top of the waistband together with my "Clover Wonder Clips" to hold both the waistband and elastic in place and to keep the safety pins secure and out of the way of the sewing machine needle.  I stitched in the ditch starting 6" from the left front flap all the way around to about 6" from the right front flap.  I then pulled one side of elastic out at a time and stitched it into place with the little room I had left.  After that the little sections that were left to stitch in the ditch went right together very easy.

Top stitching the waistband.

I used a couple of extra Clover Wonder Clips to hold the safety pin securely.

The rest was easy peasy  after that, just the normal top stitching of the elastic and adding the button and button hole and a few other minor details.

I have to say when it is all said and done they were a bunch of fun to make.  Even when it came to the waistband and elastic.  I think its a good thing to sometimes have to figure something out, outside of the normal pattern instructions.  It shows you what you are really
capable of and how far you've come and that's a good thing!

That is it, the end of my post for today.  We just have a couple of things left....first, the big "Shout Out".

Today that is going to....Rochelle of Lucky Lucille - Her talent of seamlessly recreating the attire of the 40's is absolutely flawless.  Every time I read her blog and view her new creations it's like stepping back through a window in time.  She brings new meaning to making something beautiful with just plain cotton fabric.  So if your looking for loads of inspiration, she a definite must read on anyones  blog list!

and also....

This week the "Two Thumbs Up" goes to those good folks at Hawaiian Fabric.com .  I absolutely love this store for cotton prints.  They have great prices and there shipping is always on time.

These are two of my latest Fabric Purchases from them which I'm pairing up with a Hawaiian Classic Pattern #210 from the Victoria Jones Collection.  Can't wait to get started!  So if you haven't stopped by their site yet you just have to check them out!

Until next time....Happy Sewing!    Seam Ripper Joe