Monday, May 19, 2014

KWIK Sew 3484 "Complete Pictorial Series" Part 3 of 3


This post will complete the KWIK Sew 3484 Shirt.  This section will cover the complete construction of the shirt and final fit.  I know it's been a lengthy series but I thought it was important to cover everything on this shirt with you before I made my final judgement.


The pocket all cut out.


You first have to fold and iron the top, wrong sides together, corresponding with the chalk marks from your pattern.


Then on the same fold, fold it back to the right side and also fold the raw edge 1/4" under and iron it all flat.


Just for reference, the whole pattern is sewn with 1/4" seam allowance.  Here we are sewing just the very top fold to secure it down.


Once you have sewn the two sides, turn it right side out and make sure the corners are square.  You can see where the folds for both sides are started from by sewing the top of the pocket in this manner.


Fold and iron each raw edge 1/4" inward on pocket sides.


Stitch along the bottom edge of the top all the way across.


Pin the pocket in place on the front left panel of your shirt.


Top stitch pocket in place very close to the pocket edge.  Usually around 1/16".


Pocket all secure in place.  I really enjoy this part when your work all comes together and everything line up just right.


Next we attach the front facing to the front of the shirt, right sides together.



First you straight stitch your 1/4" seam all the way down your facing then you go back and zig-zag off the edge to prevent fraying.


Once completed fold facing back wrong sides together and iron flat.


With both facings sewn you are now ready to sew your front panels to the back.


Both sides are straight stitched across and then the zig-zag stitch is used once again to bind off the raw edge.


It's looking pretty good!


I always top stitch my shoulder seems I feel like it helps hold the seam allowance down.  The pattern doesn't call for it, I just like the way it looks.


Pin (or wonder clip) upper and under collar sections right sides together.  Your upper collar should be the one with the interfacing ironed on.


After you have sewn the sides and top of your collar together trim the excess fabric from the top corners and seams.


Turn the collar right side out and fold all the seems on there edge also make sure to push the corners all the way out.


Iron the top of the collar nice and flat slightly turn the seams under as you iron.


Top stitch the sides and top of collar.


Completed!


Pin the collar in place making sure your matching all of your marker points (shoulders and back) you now also pin part of the facing to the collar.  It's important at this point that you really follow the directions that come with the pattern.


Sewing the collar in place.


After you have the collar attached there is a part of the upper collar edge you are going to have to fold under and stitch down.


This is how it should look up to this point.


Now just pin your sleeves in place.  There might be a little bit of ease you need to work in but it should smooth out pretty well.


All sewn on.  Make sure you iron as you go!


Zig-zag all of your raw edges, this is my sleeve seam.


Once that is completed top stitch your sleeve.


Pin the sides of your shirt, right sides together and sew starting from the vent of your shirt at the bottom all the way to the end of your sleeve.


Make sure to clip all the way to your seam where the vent starts.


Once again, zig-zag your raw edges on the sides of your shirt.  From your sleeve all the way down to the point you cut into your seam at the side vent.


Hem your sleeves.  I folded mine 1/4" and ironed, then folded again 1" ironed and then sewed down.


Completed sleeves!


To hem the bottom of your shirt you need to fold your facing at the front of your shirt, back right sides together and stitch 1" from the bottom raw edge of your shirt.  Then cut the excess fabric away from your facing.


I also trimmed the corner of extra fabric off so that when you turn it right side out it will be a crisper corner.


I then turned it right side out and folded and ironed a 1" seam.  I then folded that seam in 1/2 tucking it under and ironing it flat so that the raw edge of the fabric would be nice and tucked into the hem and then sewn down.


Sewing the bottom hem.  Yea.... Almost done!


Now to deal with the bottom side vents.


I ironed the vent open and then fold the excess fabric again in half like I did on the hem so that the raw edge would be tucked inside the hem of the side vent.  A also angled the fabric at the corner and folded it under.



Sewing the bar tack.


The finished vent.


The button hole placement on this particular shirt does not show up on the actual pattern.  What you need to do is measure 4 1/2" inches from the top of your center front and that will be where you place your first button hole.  Each hole after that is only 4" apart.  Until you have marked all 5 button holes.


You know your almost done with you garment when the button holes start going in ; )


Carefully open your button holes with your seam ripper.


Make sure you carefully match up your button placement on the right side of your shirt with the button holes on the left.


Buttons all sewn in place!


Giving it the last once over before trying it on.


The fit is perfect.


It's not tight what-so-ever!


Easy to move around in.


It's definitely a great pattern.  Well worth making.  This is the first button down shirt I have made without a yoke and to tell you the truth I cannot tell any difference.  Your able to move around in it very easy and I never feel like it is tight in any area.  This is once again another awesome pattern put out by KWIK Sew that I highly recommend.

I know this was a very long series, thanks for hanging in there!

Until next time....Happy Sewing!    Seam Ripper Joe