Thursday, August 22, 2013

The Classic Hawaiian Shirt....Victoria Jones Pattern # 210


This is truly a wonderful pattern.  I picked it up several months ago along with some amazing fabric from Hawaiian Fabric.com and just could not wait to make it.  You have to love the Victoria Jones Collection of Patterns.  They are all well written, with easy to understand directions and also present to you a brief history of the particular garment you are sewing.  How cool is that!


Once I made my pattern copies I started laying out my front panels.  This was such a very busy fabric I decided not to worry so much about lining up the pattern to match up at the seams.  The only exception I made to that was going to be the front pocket.


All of my pattern markers I used black thread instead of chalk.  You can see were I marked off my front pocket bottom and corners and also my buttonholes.  It's a little time consuming but they never rub off like chalk does (and that's a really good thing!).


Pattern all cut out.  Now let the Fun Begin!


The pocket seams creased up very nicely (good cotton fabric).  I'm sewing the top side seams before turning the pocket top right side out.


This is after I sewed the pocket on to the front panel.  I was very careful in matching up the fabric (can you see it!).



I love my Singer 66!  It sewed the perfect straight top stitch for my button band.


Here she is midway in progress.  I have the back panel and two front panels connected to the yoke.  I was so into my sewing when I rolled the two front panels and back panel into my yoke to attach the two front panels, I forgot to take pictures of it.  Just imagine a two foot long hoagie and that's what it looked like.  It was a little bugger to pull everything back right side out again.  But with much perseverance and patience it all righted itself nicely.


As much as I wanted to sew the entire shirt on my Singer 66, I had to give in and use my Janome to bind off the sleeve seams with a ZigZag stitch (I have my Singer Automatic ZigZagger attachment ordered, It just hasn't come in the post yet.....sigh....).


Topstitching 1/4" from seam on sleeve to bind down the seam toward the neck underneath.



Sewing the French Seams on the sides (wrong sides together).  It's always fun at this point because you see your shirt really starting to take shape.


After sewing the initial seam on the shirt sides, I cut the seam down by half before turning it right sides together to sew my final seam, which in turn, turns it into a French Seam.  They really are a graceful seam when they are done!


I had to pay particular close attention to hemming the bottom of the shirt to ensure all three panels lined up just right.


With the entire shirt almost completed, this was the most challenging part.  Attaching the shirt collar to the yoke.  After a little bit of finagling though, I had it lined up just right and it sewed up nicely.


Ta Da...The Big Shirt Collar Reveal!



The shirt came out to a perfect fit with no pattern adjustments needed what so ever!  Thanks Victoria Jones.  I feel like I'm ready to hit the beaches of Hawaii.


This shirt was such a joy to make and fit so well I already have the fabric to make another.

That is it, the end of my post for today.  We just have a couple of things left....first, the big "Shout Out".

Today that is going to....Gary and Barbara at Old Sewin Gear who are a Father and Daughter team out of Roseburg, Oregon.  They specialize in Vintage Sewing Machines of all types from repairing them to how they operate.  They are a must read for any vintage sewing machine enthusiast.

and also....

This week the "Two Thumbs Up" goes to Vogue Fabrics who constantly bring us incredible fabric at discounted prices.  Paired up with there flat rate shipping they are a one stop shop that will keep your bobbin spinning.

Until next time....Happy Sewing!    Seam Ripper Joe